Horticulturalist Melinda Myers offers tips and suggestions for each month of the year.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs as soon as they are done blooming. Finish pruning by early June so that the plants have enough time to set flower buds for next spring.
Dig the planting hole for trees and shrubs twice the diameter and the same depth or shallower than the rootball. Make sure the root flare of trees and crown of shrubs are at the soil surface. Roughen the sides of the planting hole, using your shovel or garden rake to nick or scratch the soil surface.
Reduce the risk of black spot on roses by removing infected and fallen leaves as they appear.
Treat mugo and other pines infested with pine needle scale with insecticidal soap when the Bridal Wreath Spirea are flowering and lilac flower buds begin to swell. Repeat in summer when the Annabelle hydrangeas bloom.
Allow bulb leaves to naturally yellow and dry before removing. The leaves produce the needed energy for next year’s flower display.
Dig and divide overgrown perennials. Spring is the best time to divide summer and fall blooming perennials. Wait until after flowering or late August to divide spring-flowering perennials.
Put stakes, peony cages and trellises in place. It is always easier to train young plants through the cages or onto the stakes than to manipulate mature plants into submission.
Harden off transplants before moving them from indoors or a greenhouse to the outdoors. Allow about 2 weeks to complete this process.
Thin garden phlox, bee balm and other powdery mildew susceptible plants when stems are 8 inches tall. Remove 1/4 to 1/3 of the stems. This will increase light and air to the plant, decreasing the risk of powdery mildew.
Sow seeds of lima beans, cucumber, melons and squash when the soil has warmed. Select shorter season varieties of squash and melons that will reach maturity and be ready for harvest before the first frost.
Late May or early June is the first time to fertilize your lawn. Consider using a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer to promote steady growth and reduce the risk of burn.
In May, when the lawn is actively growing, it’s the second best time to control that thatch and soil compaction. (The best time is fall.) Thatch is a brown, spongy layer of partially decomposed grass. Thick layers prevent water and nutrients from reaching the grass roots. Dethatching physically removes this layer of organic matter. Core aeration removes plugs of soil, allowing the thatch to break down. The openings also help to repair soil compactions.
Summering houseplants outdoors can help rejuvenate declining plants. Look for a spot with dappled or filtered shade like that under a Honey Locust tree. The high humidity outdoors and diffuse light are perfect for reviving houseplants.
Proper soil preparation is critical in planting success. Add organic matter and fertilizer to the top 6 to 12 inches of garden soil. Rake smooth and allow the soil to settle.
Watch for signs of deer, rabbits, and woodchucks. These animals appreciate a few fresh greens–your new transplants–in their diets. Repellents applied before they start feeding may give you control. Fencing small garden areas may help keep out the deer, as they do not seem to like to feed in small, fenced areas. A 4-ft. fence anchored in the ground will help keep the rabbits our. Fencing may not be the most attractive remedy, but it beats having no flowers at all!
